Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Lost on Tanner Butte

I referenced this story in my post yesterday on Eagle Creek to Eaton Ridge. It didn't happen recently; this was in May 2009. It was a valuable learning experience that not everyone needs to have.

We set off on our adventure from Eagle Creek. It seems like this has been our training ground as we have gotten into hiking and backpacking with little other than a stack of maps, two hiking books, and slowly building our gear list. We have learned by this point that Eagle Creek Campground is about the safest parking lot in the recreational area.

Not that it's relevant, but here are our pack weights:

  • Jeff: 44lbs
  • Gena: 30.5lbs
  • Jane: Food + 140oz H2P

Left Trailhead about noon after getting Gena's hip belt replaced on her new REI Venus Pack. Have I stressed how great the service, returns, and selection is at REI?

We hadn't been hiking for more than 15 minutes when we hit an unexpected fork in the trail that required us to break out our map and make sure we were on the right path. As we left from there, I left my poles on a bench. 15 minutes after that, and about 500ft more in elevation, I would remember, set down my pack, and jog back to get them. Then jog back up! When I got there, some guy was checking out my poles!

When I got back to Gena and my pack, I broke out my Camelbak to get a drink. It was empty. The odd thing is that I still can't figure out where the water went! It seems like the bite valve must have been pinched and the water leaked out, but nothing in my pack was wet! Fortunately, Gena had some for me and a creek was just around the corner, up the hill from Bonneville. Damn.

The hike up was beautiful. I good length of the trail above Bonneville is more of a fire road. The turn off from there to the top of Tanner Butte hosts a beautiful little creek with some waterfalls, etc. It's like a little pocket oasis. Check the pics on Flickr via the link at the bottom of this post. The climb up from here was pretty steep for pretty far. We took many breaks.

At 3000ft we hit our first sizeable snow patch that covered and caused us to lose the trail. We stopped for a good family photo. Eventually, we found the trail on the other side of the snow deposit. There were a few sections in this snow deposit where you could drop a leg trough into a hollow pocket next to a log or brush. You want to watch for those things.

About 3500ft, the trail was lost. Fortunately, this is at the base of the main butte structure. We had a steep slope down to the left and a gradual slope down to the right; both clearly identifiable on the topo map. To add to our confidence, we had sporadic tracks of previous hikers to follow. We knew we would reach the top of the butte even in the snow and the cool was kind of nice after the vicious uphill an hour ago.

After enjoying the view at the top for a while, we thought about turning back. We noticed on our map (which we downloaded off a USFS site) that the trail to the top forked in from the main trail so all we had to do to find it was backtrack a little and drop down the shallow slope side of the hill. When we found the sort of clearing indicative of a trail that was still covered in snow, I thought about returning to Dublin Lake. We didn't want to waste the trip, however, so we pressed on with only map and compass.

My handy barometric altimeter is pretty accurate if I calibrate it at known points periodically. It kept telling me that we should have reached the main trail 200ft ago, then 400ft ago, then 600ft ago… We kept on our downward journey.

At one point, we came to a large steep snow deposit… but the best way down seemed to be across the snow surface. We each had a pole at this point to feel the snow in front of us, and I went first as I weigh the most. As we got near the bottom of the snow patch, and what seemed to be the last of the snow for the trip, I could tell it was getting dangerous: the snow patch was resting atop brush at this point.

Suddenly I heard a crash and look back as Gena let out a yelp. Her leg had penetrated the sheet of snow and ice. The loss of balance caused by fatigue and a heavy pack spun her around backwards but her foot was locked in the brush pointing the wrong direction. I dropped my pack and scurried up to help. I got her pack off of her and spun her around proper so I could assess the knee; probably sprained. We packed ice around it while I got to the first aid kit to pop some vitamin-M and wrap the knee. We had to get off this hill.

Once we were off the ice and snow, the scramble through the brush and thorns was easier. IT WAS STILL HARD, just easier. When the sun went down, we donned our headlamps and continued until about 11pm. It was too late, too dark, and we were too fatigued to continue.

We found a log against a couple of trees that provided a rest against the relentlessly steep down slope of the hill. After laying out a tarp and securing it to some trees uphill from us to insulate us from ground moisture, we pulled out sleeping bags and climbed inside. This was our shelter for the night. Gena elevated her leg onto the log jam and her pack to help keep the swelling at bay, and took another Motrin.

As the sun started to rise we packed up and started down the hill again. We should have found the trail 1600ft ago. We were next to a creek that could have been one of two on our map. If we could follow it to where it poured into Tanner Creek, we would be fine… and should find the main trail!

100ft from where we camped for the night were signs of coyote activity… probably months old. 100yards from that was a bear nest. The bear was likely spooked by us, but shouldn't be too far away. Keep moving. Gena's leg was hurt. Jane was hurt all over, but dogs don't feel pity. Once suitably far away from the bear nest, but in a particularly difficult to navigate section of marshy swamp area, I left Gena with the packs and the gun so I could recon a way out of here. Only a few minutes later I found a deer trail that led us to the main trail.

Looking at the map, ignoring user added features (the red dotted line that some guy suggested was the trail), we figured about where we must be. We thought it may be easier to try and continue to Eagle Creek to enjoy the gradual downhill shot straight back to our truck. That trail was over grown and we eventually lost it. I would like to go try to carve/mark it out when we aren't injured.

We decided to follow the main trail out before the leg completely locked up. The hike back was along that small bit of trail that later merged back to the main fire road. From here, all was pretty manageable. But Gena was still really hurt and I was pretty fatigued; mostly just worried about her leg and Jane's raw skin and paws. The hike out was beautiful, despite the pain.

Jane had a pack but I hadn't yet figured out how to set the straps properly. As a result, she got terribly chaffed from the pack sliding around. Her feet also got torn up pretty bad from all the back country brush and thorns. I feel like an idiot for both. I used to cowboy a little in my early 20's. Why wouldn't I set a dog's pack the same as a saddle? I eventually did just that, tightened the chest and flank straps until they were a little more than snug, and have had no problem since. I haven't gotten boots for her yet, but they are on the want-list. In the mean time, I limit our off-trail or hot, sharp rock hikes. I will be picking these boots out before our Hood Hike this summer. I have also found it helpful to let Jane have a cut up shirt to sleep in. I can't put it on her in the day as it chaffs her, but at night it helps keep her toasty warm!

After the hike, Gena went to her usual doctor in town who wanted x-rays and a list of other expensive traditional treatment. She decided instead to visit the family's Chiropractor who had her feeling better in about a half hour. I have never been a fan of chiropractic medicine until I met this guy. I may have someone else write up a detailed review of the different methodologies of chiropractic medicine. For now, let me just say there are a few bone crackers out there. Then there are professionals who know the nervous system and musculoskeletal structure like nobody's business. These guys are awesome and everyone should see one periodically. I need to do that myself so don't feel bad.

Gena's knee was still weak until… are you ready for this? …until we got back into P90X and even started INSANITY! No kiddin'! I am not just selling stuff here! It was awesome! She had to wear a knee brace most of the year until recently. Craziness.

Lessons Learned:

  • Don't trust user added features on a topo map. They may be roughin' it.
  • Don't hike over/though late season snow deposits. You may get injured or worse.
  • If you're not sure, turn back while you can still follow your tracks.
  • Carry gloves suitable for cold and thorns.
  • Have the right gear for your dog and know how to use it.
  • Camelbaks are a good tool for some things but keep the bite valve where you can see it.
  • Electric Compasses are not as reliable as real compasses; neither are good near power lines.

Flickr Link

1 comment:

  1. Jeff,
    The trip sounds a lot like some of my hunting trips. One, there never is a map. Two, you don't follow a trail, you follow an animal, and worse if you've already shot it. Who knows where its going to take you. Three, snow over trees and brush suck! I once had a spring black bear hunt in AK and we used snowshoes; however, we would occasionally break through the snow and get snagged in the underbrush. We weren't on a slope like Gina was. I can totally relate. You are correct in acknowledgeing the lessons learned here. Topos are great but you really need to recognize the date when they are created. I once did a sheep hunt--again in Alaska--and I had run out of water on a steep ascent up a ridge. I camped out and had just enough for oatmeal and a cup of coffee in the morning. The decision to camp and not push forward was made because the topo I was using showed a stream at the base of the ridge I was ascending. Needless to say, I finished breakfast the next morning, climbed up to the ridgeline and to my dissappointment, found that there wasn't a stream anymore! I even took out my binoculars and scanned the valley floor, nothing! I was dumbfounded. I wasn't sure what to do, but I knew staying on the ridge wasn't an option, I had to find water. I eventually did further down the valley. From that day on, I always carry extra water and take note of map dates. If I can, I try to get the most up to date map possible. With google earth now, it makes it easier to view water sources that can be seen from that altitude.
    Thats my mini-book for now. I have lots of these experiences tucked away. I'll keep reading yours.
    Cheers.
    Chuck

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